// Install guides
EGR DELETE — 09-24 CUMMINS 6.7L
Designed for off-road race use only. Not intended for street driven vehicles. Installing this kit voids the factory warranty and can damage the truck if installed incorrectly. We will not be held liable for any damage caused by its installation. Have a drain pan under the turbo on the passenger side before the cooler comes off. 2009–2012 trucks can be drained first; on 2013+ trucks it is easier to top up about half a litre afterwards.
Removing the EGR valve, crossover tube, cooler and bypass valve on a 2009–2024 RAM 2500/3500 6.7L Cummins, fitting the block off plates, rerouting the coolant and mounting the new bracket. Where 2008–2012 and 2013+ trucks differ, the step says so. Read these instructions, then read them again before touching your tools. We urge you to have the work done by a professional. Tools and supplies: coolant, penetrating lube, Teflon tape, grease; 8mm, 10mm, 13mm and 15mm sockets, 11mm deep socket; 15mm stubby wrench, 16mm wrench, 1" wrench; 6mm Allen key; flat head screwdriver, razor, pliers, pry bar; 3" extension; 1/2" and 3/8" ratchets; torque wrench. Torque specs: intake horn plate 18 ft-lb; front and rear exhaust manifold plates 37 ft-lb; new stud nut 37 ft-lb.
Steps
1 Remove the top plastic cover
Four bolts, 8mm socket. Pull the dipstick out, lift the cover off, then put the dipstick straight back so no debris falls down the tube.
2 Disconnect the EGR valve and temperature sensor connectors
The grey and brown connectors.
3 Unbolt the EGR valve from the intake horn
Four bolts, 10mm socket.
4 Remove the 8mm bolt between the crossover tube and the radiator hose
It sits directly in line with the oil cap. Press down on the radiator hose with your ratchet to get in. This one is a bit tough to reach.
5 Loosen the V-band clamp on the far left of the EGR crossover tube
11mm deep socket. Break the clamp free with a flat head screwdriver and push it back out of the way.
6 Remove the EGR valve and crossover tube together
Set them aside. Do not let the round metal tube gasket fall off.
7 Clean the intake horn surface
Razor blade. Do not let gasket material fall into the intake horn.
8 Fit both new gaskets and the anodised aluminium plate
Use the socket head bolts provided.
9 Torque the intake horn plate to 18 ft-lb
Logo side up, gasket against the intake horn, 6mm Allen head.
10 Unplug the brown exhaust back pressure sensor
2008–2012 trucks have this sensor on the thermostat housing, where it can be left alone.
11 Unplug the black connector on the EGR cooler servo assembly
12 Remove the V-band clamp you loosened earlier
It comes off now the crossover pipe is out of the way.
13 Remove the crankcase vent tube from the valve cover and the EGR
Pliers for the hose clamp at the valve cover. Unbolt the tube from the side of the EGR and keep the piping.
14 Remove the intake tube and the small crankcase tube
From the air filter to the turbocharger.
15 Remove the heat shield bolts under the cooler
10mm socket, passenger side of the engine bay.
16 Remove the heat shield nuts from the front of the EGR cooler assembly
10mm.
17 Pry the heat shield off its stud and bend it out of the way
So the front piece can come off.
18 Remove the remaining heat shield bolts
8mm socket.
19 Soak the two 15mm nuts at the front of the EGR cooler
They hold the cooler to the exhaust manifold. Spray them with penetrating oil and let them rest. Both are very tight and like to bind up; take your time so you do not break a stud.
20 Break both 15mm nuts free and keep them
The accessible one first. For the other you need a stubby 15mm wrench: set it on the nut, get a pry bar in from the top and crack it. Make sure you are not prying on anything that can break.
Keep these two nuts; they are reused.
21 Unbolt the bypass valve bracket
Two 10mm bolts between the EGR and the valve cover.
22 Remove the three bolts on the other side of the EGR cooler
23 Pull off the bypass valve assembly with the front section of cooler plumbing
24 Fit the small steel plate with the saved 15mm nuts
Torque to 37 ft-lb.
25 Unbolt the EGR cooler
Four 10mm bolts.
26 68RFE automatics: pry off the transmission dipstick tube hold-down
Back left side, with a pry bar.
27 Find the two rear 15mm nuts
At the very back, holding the cooler to the manifold like the front pair, and just as prone to binding. The next photo shows them.
28 Remove the two rear nuts and keep them
Throw a rag over the cooler in case it is hot. A 3" extension with a 15mm socket on a 1/2" ratchet reaches both. Set them aside; they are reused.
Get the drain pan under the turbo on the passenger side now. 2009–2012 trucks can be drained first; on 2013+ it is easier to top up about half a litre afterwards.
29 Pull the coolant line out of the cooler and pry the coolant hose off
You lose a little coolant if you have not drained it. The cooler is now free to come out.
30 Pry the cooler off its bracket and lift it up and forward
31 Remove the cooler bracket
Two 13mm bolts.
32 Fit the second, larger steel plate
If you have a pyrometer, fit its bung to the plate and install the probe. If not, fit the 1/8" NPT plug snug. Torque the plate to 37 ft-lb.
33 Remove the exhaust manifold bolt at cylinder 4
13mm socket.
34 Thread in the stud with the factory collar and torque its nut
Supplied 15mm nut, 37 ft-lb.
35 Thread the aluminium collar onto the new stud
Snug it with a 16mm wrench.
36 Wrap the 1/2" NPT plug in Teflon tape
It plugs the hole you are about to open.
37 Remove the coolant nipple from the head and plug the hole
1" wrench, slowly; it is very tight. Once it is out, fit the NPT plug straight away.
38 Prepare the removed nipple
Take off its O-ring and wrap the threads in Teflon tape, ready for the plug you remove next.
39 Swap the rear plug for the coolant nipple
The plug is directly behind where the nipple was. Pull it with a 3/8" ratchet and thread the nipple in tight.
Coolant comes spilling out very quickly, so be ready.
40 Press the aluminium hose adapter into the coolant line
Lube it first. The photo on the next step shows it in place.
41 Attach the black steel bracket to the threaded collar and hose adapter
42 Bolt the bottom of the bracket to the collar on exhaust bolt 4
Supplied 10mm bolt and washer.
43 Bolt the transmission dipstick to the top of the bracket
1/4" bolt and nut.
44 Bolt whatever else lines up to the bracket
Different years have different things on this bracket. Use the 5/16" bolts for the back pressure tube (2008–2012) and anything else that lines up.
45 Fit the short end of the silicone hose to the coolant nipple
Lube it; it is tight. Add a hose clamp, but only hold it in place for now in case you want to trim the short end. Line the hose up to the aluminium adapter to see how much you need on the other side.
46 Cut the hose to length, fit it to the adapter and tighten the clamps
Keep the piece you cut off.
47 Plug in the brown back pressure sensor and tie up the EGR pigtails
2013+ trucks only for the sensor. Tie the pigtails cleanly to the brown one.
48 Replace the crankcase vent hose with a 7" piece of the offcut
It runs between the tube and the valve cover.
49 Refit the air intake tubing
Use the supplied aluminium spacer and the longer 5/16" bolt to attach the tube to the bracket.
50 Unplug the throttle valve on the rear of the intake horn
By the block off plate.
