// Install guides
EGR DELETE — 14-19 RAM 1500 ECODIESEL 3.0L
Not legal for sale or use on pollution-controlled motor vehicles anywhere. Legal only for off-road competition race vehicles that are not operated on public streets, roads or highways. By installing this product you assume all risk and liability for its use, it is your responsibility to comply with all federal, state and local emissions laws, and it may void the manufacturer's warranty. The coolant lines leak a fair amount when they come off, even after draining. Keep the drain pan under the truck.
Removing the EGR cooler, actuator and feed pipes on a 2014–2019 RAM 1500 3.0L EcoDiesel, fitting the intake and exhaust block off plates, and rerouting the coolant with the supplied hose. Written from Dark Iron Diesel's video of the same job, whose EGR delete starts at 19:54; each step notes where it is in the video. The kit in the video is not ours, so the plates and hardware may look a little different. Tune first. Follow the tuning instructions for your package before removing anything. Tools: 10mm ratchet wrench, 8mm socket, T25 and T40 Torx bits, a very small flat head screwdriver, razor blade, hose clamp pliers, zip ties, a drain pan and coolant to refill.
Steps
1 Watch the EGR delete in Dark Iron Diesel's video
The whole job is about nine minutes of video, from 19:54 to 28:32. Watch it through once before you start, then work through these steps with it open.
More on this step →2 Take the exhaust off first if you are replacing it
Two of the hardest fasteners sit at the back of the engine, and they are much easier to reach with the exhaust out of the way. If you are fitting a delete exhaust as well, do the EGR delete while it is off.
3 Drain the coolant and remove the engine cover
The drain is underneath on the driver's side: a quarter turn loosens it and another quarter turn pops it out. Take the reservoir cap off so it drains faster. The engine cover pops straight off by hand.
4 Remove the air intake duct, then the EGR pipe into the intake
Take the air intake duct off and pull the foam out; both go back on later. Then remove the EGR pipe where it meets the intake, two bolts at each end, and lift it out. The soot inside it is the reason for the delete.
5 Fit the intake block off plate
It goes where the EGR pipe met the intake. The threaded plug in the plate is for an aftermarket boost pressure sensor. Make sure it is snug and cannot thread through and fall into the intake. Check the rubber gasket is in good condition, then bolt the plate on with the new bolts.
6 Remove the air filter box
Unplug the sensor, undo the clips, lift the box out and take the filter out.
7 Remove the EGR actuator vacuum line and cap the solenoid
Unplugging the nearby injector connector gives more room. If the line is still too tight, a razor cut in the rubber boot lets the plastic line pop out. Follow it to the solenoid, pop the clips off and remove the line from the truck. Push the supplied vacuum cap onto the solenoid port; if you have none, kink the line over and zip tie it.
8 Remove the EGR actuator and heat shield
Pop the small clip and washer off the actuator linkage with a very small flat head screwdriver and keep them. Remove the two T25 Torx bolts and lift the actuator and heat shield out.
9 Disconnect the battery and the EGR electrical connectors
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Unplug the orange and blue connectors. For the large connector, push the red tab back, open the lever, and unclip it from the bracket.
10 Remove the coolant line at the back of the EGR cooler
Press both sides of the plastic retainer together (pliers help) and pop it off, then remove the two bolts holding the line to the cooler.
11 Remove the coolant line at the front of the EGR cooler and keep its gasket
Remove the two bolts and pull the line off. Keep the gasket: it goes back on later. Plug the injector connector back in if you unplugged it.
12 Remove the two EGR pipe bolts
One is on the side of the pipe and one is directly underneath it. Both are tight; a 10mm ratchet wrench gets them.
13 Remove the T40 Torx bolt at the bottom of the pipe
The hardest fastener on the job. It is on the back side, low down, and is easiest to reach from under the truck. Removing the pipe section above it gives your hands more room.
14 Remove the black bracket
Pop the wires off it, then remove its three bolts and take it off.
15 Remove the EGR cooler
Remove the three bolts holding it and lift it out of the truck.
16 Remove the coolant line that ran to the cooler
Undo the clamp at the bottom and pull the whole line out. Hose clamp pliers help with the awkward clamp. It is not reused, so cutting it is fine. Removing the passenger inner fender liner gives more access if you need it.
17 Block off the exhaust port from underneath
From under the truck, remove the three 8mm bolts holding the EGR pipe and keep the gasket. Fit the exhaust block off plate with the new bolts and the reused gasket, then pull the pipe out if it is still in.
18 Fit the bracket and block off the coolant port
Bolt the new bracket on with two of the bolts that came off the old one. Bolt the front coolant line to it to block it off, using the factory gasket you kept, the factory bolts and the new nuts.
19 Fit the new coolant hose
Remove the plastic connector, fit the new hose at the bottom, join it to the old line with the barbed fitting, and tighten all three hose clamps. Zip tie the hose clear of the exhaust and anything it could rub on.
20 Reassemble the engine bay
Reconnect the large connector and clip it into its mounting holes. Check every fastener is tight. Refit the air filter box, routing and clipping its wires back into place, then the air intake duct and the engine cover.
21 Refill the coolant and reconnect the battery
Tighten the coolant drain, fill the coolant and reconnect the negative battery cable. Top the coolant up again after a good drive once the engine is up to temperature.